Mix it up with Mani

Sugar for Flavor and Texture

In the midst of research for my next cookbook, this month I’m hot on the trail of sugar’s role in both flavor and texture. Light brown sugar makes for a chewy, crispy oatmeal cookie while powdered sugar smoothes out the peanut butter glaze. Deep and dark brown sugar, called muscovado, is good in both dinner and dessert recipes. I use it as the base for Pork Adobo and to impart a full flavor to cheesecake.

The cheesecake comes as the result of a recent trip to Ann Arbor, Michigan. I finally had the chance to visit the world famous Zingerman’s Deli. (And eat everything in sight). They were kind enough to share with me their recipe for Muscovado Cheesecake with Graham Cracker Cornmeal Crust, which I have simplified for the home cook this month. Simply using the muscovado sugar adds a rich, smooth note of caramel. “ It just tastes better”, says Zingerman’s baker Charlie Frank.

I have been a fan of this sugar since I first discovered it one summer while working as a private chef in England. Rich, dark, moist and somewhat clumpy, muscovado is made by leaving the molasses intact as the sugar begins to crystallize. Well worth seeking out - note that it may be labeled Barbados sugar or dark brown molasses sugar. Substitutions are listed in each recipe if you are unable to locate it.

I’ll be attending the natural foods trade show later this month so I should have plenty of inspiration; I promise some healthful, whole grain and lowfat recipes for next month, just in time for spring!

Oatmeal Peanut Cremes
If there are peanut allergies in the family, try substituting almond butter. Or skip the glaze; these cookies are great either way.

Pork Tenderloin with Tequila Brown Sugar Adobo
Pork tenderloin is wonderfully quick and easy to prepare. This recipe draws on all Latin influences, from Spain to the Caribbean. Serve accordingly, with rice, beans or tortillas.

Muscovado Cheesecake with Graham Cracker Cornmeal Crust

This hails from the famous Zingerman’s deli of Ann Arbor, Michigan. Pastry manager Charlie Frank, from my childhood home of Romeo, Michigan, gave me a tour of their bakehouse. In between gobbling bites of the amazing Zang! bar he created and catching up on Romeo gossip, Charlie managed to share this recipe with me.