American Heritage Baking—Let’s Bake and Learn
by Nancy Baggett

Whole Wheat Quick Bread—A Quick Way to Celebrate the Goodness of Grain

A funny thing happened on our way to developing the American quick bread repertoire. We took a turn away from the early plain, hearty, non-sweet recipes (Irish soda bread and baking powder biscuits are examples), and headed down a path toward sweeter, fancier, more cake-like creations. The huge collection of tempting blueberry, cranberry, pumpkin, banana, and similar light, sweet fruit breads and muffins we enjoy today is one result. But another is that we’ve neglected some less complicated everyday quick breads that are delicious, easy to make, and very healthful.

In the early 1800s, when baking soda and powder first came into use in American kitchens, many quick breads were of the plain sort. (See the sidebar for an example.) Often, cooks simply replaced the yeast in their staple bread recipes with a chemical leavening. This resulted in homey, unfussy loaves that tasted and looked more or less like standard yeast breads, but were much quicker to make. This is, of course, why they were called “quick” breads.

Gradually, as sugar became more affordable, the sweeter, fruit-laden recipes (sometimes called tea breads to distinguish them from their plainer cousins) began to predominate. With a few exceptions, the simpler quick breads that showcase the taste of wheat, cornmeal, oats, or rye flour disappeared from our tables. One bread of that type that is still going strong is the buttermilk biscuit. Cornbread is on our menus, too, though over the last century recipes have generally gotten sweeter, richer, and more akin to cake. Parts of the South have bucked this trend: some traditionalists steadfastly prepare dense, non-sugary, very “corny” whole grain cornbreads and consider the light, sweet versions served elsewhere an abomination. New Englanders still make their Boston brown breads, but these are usually fairly heavily sweetened with molasses and sometimes with raisins or “craisins” as well.

The only non-sweet, everyday quick bread loaf that’s around nowadays is Irish soda bread. It’s most popular with Americans of Irish descent and those celebrating things Irish on St. Patrick’s Day. Like old-fashioned Southern cornbread, this humble loaf is in danger of losing its original character. One die-hard devotee flatly states on his website, www.bookguy.com, that any version calling for sugar, shortening, eggs, baking powder, whiskey, or fruit, is not real soda bread, but “cake.” (Soda bread jazzed up with raisins is properly named “Spotted Dog,” he adds.) He recalls that his Irish-American mother’s soda bread wasn’t festive, but rather, a no-frills loaf she made every day or so to help sustain her family. To encourage more people to carry on and prepare it correctly, he provides authentic recipes and background information and invites visitors to join (for free) his “Society for the Preservation of Irish Soda Bread.”

While I’m not a rabid soda bread fan, I think it’s a shame that the savory style of quick bread loaves isn’t baked more often. Few American cooks today even realize that quick breads don’t have to be fruity and sweet to taste good, and those who make Irish soda bread often think it’s their only option. That’s too bad because they are missing out on some delicious, nourishing, easy-to-prepare alternatives.

Seeded Wheat Quick Bread (printable)

The following handsome, crusty-topped loaf has a mellow flavor and makes a wonderfully gratifying addition to meals. My husband and I usually polish it off in a day or so. We don’t have to feel guilty though: With only a couple tablespoons of honey or molasses for sweetening and a little low-saturated fat vegetable oil and one egg for texture, it’s quite healthful. I’ve found that both honey and molasses make a tasty bread (the molasses lends a bit more color and flavor), so chose whichever you prefer or have in the cupboard. If you wish, the sesame or poppy seeds may be omitted, though I think they add to the overall appeal.

The recipe is modern but harks back to the era when home cooks used the tangy buttermilk left over from churning butter or sour milk to help tenderize and add flavor to their bread. Here, I’ve substituted plain yogurt, which is much more likely to be on hand and also does a better job of keeping the loaf moist.

Serve the bread warm and cut into thick slices, along with soups, stews, and other hearty fare. It can also be used for toast, but the texture is too crumbly for most sandwiches.

Tip: For whole grain nutrition with a slightly milder taste and lighter color, substitute white whole wheat flour for the regular whole wheat flour called for. White whole wheat is made from a wheat variety with a less pronounced flavor than the more common red wheat. The King Arthur brand is available nationally.

1 1/2 cups whole wheat flour or white whole wheat flour, plus 3 teaspoons for garnish
1 cup all-purpose white flour
1 1/2 tablespoons sesame or poppy seeds, divided
2 1/4 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1 1/4 teaspoons salt
3/4 cup low-fat milk
2/3 cup low-fat or nonfat plain yogurt
3 1/2 tablespoons mild molasses (not blackstrap) or mild clover honey
1 large egg
1/4 cup olive oil, corn oil or other low-saturated fat vegetable oil

Place a rack in the middle third of the oven and preheat to 375 degrees F. Evenly coat an 8 1/2 - by 4 1/2-inch (or similar medium-sized) loaf pan with nonstick spray. Sprinkle 2 teaspoons whole wheat flour in the pan. Tip it back and forth until the pan sides and bottom are coated. Reserve 1 more teaspoon flour for garnishing the loaf top

In a large bowl, thoroughly stir together the remaining whole wheat and white flours, 1 tablespoon seeds, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. In medium bowl using a fork, beat together the milk, yogurt, molasses, egg, and oil until very well blended.

Gently and gradually stir the milk mixture into the flour mixture just until thoroughly incorporated but not over-mixed; excess mixing can cause toughening. Immediately turn out the batter into the pan, spreading evenly to the edges. Garnish the top evenly with the remaining 1/2 tablespoon seeds, then dust with the reserved 1 teaspoon whole wheat flour. Using a well-greased sharp paring knife, make a shallow cut lengthwise down the center of the loaf.

Bake on the middle oven rack for 45 to 55 minutes or until well browned on top and a toothpick inserted deep in the center comes out clean. Let the pan stand on a wire rack for 15 minutes. If necessary, run a table knife around the pan and under the loaf edge to loosen it.

The loaf is best served fresh and slightly warm, but may be kept airtight at room temperature for a day or so. Freeze, airtight, for longer storage; thaw before using. If desired, reheat the loaf (wrapped in foil) for about 15 minutes in a preheated 375-degree F oven; or warm individual slices wrapped in paper towels for 20 or 30 seconds in a microwave oven on low power.

Makes about 12 thick slices.

Nancy Baggett’s latest cookbooks are The All-American Cookie Book and The All-American Dessert Book. For more information and sample recipes visit her website at www.kitchenlane.com.