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Nancy Baggett
American Heritage Baking—Let’s Bake and Learn

All-American Brownies Take a Bow

by Nancy Baggett

Chocolate brownies are so much a part of the American dessert scene, it seems like they have been around forever. Actually, however, they didn’t turn up till the twentieth century. It’s likely that the world’s first brownies were being baked in New England around the turn of the century, because the earliest known recipes were published there several years later.

One recipe appeared in the 1906 edition of The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book and two more appeared in the 1907 Lowney's Cook Book, a product promotion book published by Boston chocolate manufacturer, Walter M. Lowney. All three recipes were simple and quite similar, calling for only unsweetened chocolate, and lacking vanilla or other flavorings. Neither book mentioned who contributed or created the brownie recipes, so we don’t know whom to thank for inventing this wonderful American treat.

What we do know is that a famous and influential cooking teacher, Fannie Merritt Farmer, wrote The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book and that it was a strong seller for many decades. (Reprints of several editions are still around today.) As a result, the brownie recipe was widely circulated quickly; very similar versions began popping up in cookbooks all over the country in the next ten years. We also know that in the early twentieth century Walter Lowney’s firm was a major competitor of another local chocolate company, Baker's. He lacked Mr. Baker’s or Mrs. Farmer’s staying power, though; his company went out of business in the 1930s.

One quirky fact about brownies is that the name came along before the modern brownie did. Several cookbooks include recipes called “brownies,” but they aren’t what we think of as brownies today. One example I found was a plain brown sugar drop cookie in a 1902 Ohio community cookbook. A completely different kind of non-chocolate “brownie” (see the sidebar) appeared in very first (1896) edition of The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book.

Fudge Brownies with Easy Chocolate Glaze
These brownies are very fudgy and moist. The chocolate glaze is a yummy addition, though if you’re in a hurry or happen to like less chocolate (how could that be!), the brownies are good without it, too. Presented along with a scoop of vanilla ice cream (and perhaps drizzled with a little chocolate sauce or syrup) they make a great home-style dessert.

3 1/2 tablespoons unsweetened good quality American-style cocoa powder
3/4 cup all-purpose white flour
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter
3 ounces semisweet chocolate, coarsely chopped
1 cup granulated sugar
1 tablespoon water
2 large eggs
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
Easy Glaze
1/3 cup heavy cream
1/2 tablespoon granulated sugar
3 ounces semisweet chocolate, coarsely chopped
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Line an 8-inch square baking dish with foil, allowing foil to overhang on two sides. Sift cocoa, flour, baking powder, and salt into a medium bowl. Stir well with a large wooden spoon.

In a large microwave-safe bowl, melt butter and chocolate on 100 percent power for 30 seconds. Stop and stir. Continue microwaving on 50 percent power, stopping and stirring at 30 second intervals, just until the butter completely melts. Continue stirring until chocolate completely melts. Set aside until cooled to warm. Vigorously stir sugar and water, then eggs and vanilla into the butter-chocolate mixture until very well blended. Stir in flour mixture until evenly incorporated.

Turn out batter into pan, spreading evenly to edges. Bake in middle third of oven for 20 to 25 minutes, or until center top just springs back and a toothpick inserted in center comes out clean, except for the bottom 1/4 inch, which should still look slightly wet. Set aside on a wire rack to cool; prepare glaze.

Glaze: Put cream and sugar in a microwave-safe 2-cup measure. Microwave on 100 percent power for 30 seconds or until steaming hot. Stop and stir. Add chocolate, without stirring; microwave on 50 percent power for 30 seconds longer. Remove from microwave and let stand 1 minute. Add vanilla and gently stir a minute or two until the chocolate completely melts and the glaze is very smooth and glossy.

Pour glaze over brownie layer. Spread out evenly with a long-bladed spatula or knife. Let set up until completely cooled, at least 45 minutes, uncovered, in refrigerator before cutting. Remove brownie slab using foil as handles. Carefully peel off foil. Working on a cutting board, cut slab crosswise into quarters and lengthwise into thirds (or as desired) using a large, sharp knife dipped in hot water, then wiped dry between each cut. Store, covered, for up to 3 days. Or freeze for up to a month; let thaw in the refrigerator before serving.

Makes 12 brownies.